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Triangulated 4-link mounts on rear end. Usable?

trogdor

New Member
My rear end has mounts (ears?? what are they called?) for a triangulated 4-link suspension. I thought as long as they're there I might as well go with that for my build. I'm a little skeptical, though. The frame seems pretty narrow and the angle the mounts are at seems like it would make for very short bars on top. Is it possible to make work? Has anybody done this with rear ends of this type? Below is a picture for reference.
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Spanky I don't like to disaggre but this is the way I did the Coupe that is now running around the country with lots of miles and no problems that I am aware of. Gary and Janice have been driving it down here from Utah a few times........SDC1857711111111111111.jpg
 
My only concern is going that route in a bucket. Your C-dan has a little more room inside the body envelope to "hide" components. It boils down to what do you want the finished product to look like. Just sayin' . . .
 
I agree with Spanky. I tried for weeks to get triangulated in my bucket. The only way I could get it close had the wide mounts at the rear and had many comments about not to do it that way one in particular from a chassis builder so I quit that direction. Now I’m thinking parallel bars (different lengths) with panhard bar. I have not eliminated the top bars being a wishbone. I have the parts! Remember INDECISION IS THE KEY TO FLEXIBILITY!
 
You could make it work. You can bend the bars to allow more length. Sparky has a very valid point too, which is my first inclination, because there are guys like Ron Pope at RPM Motorsports, who can fab a simple system for you, or any other vendors who sell kits. I don’t know, nor intend to question your fab skills, but from my perspective, not over complicating a build is beneficial. There are enough chores to complete.
 
You need to place the frame on stands at the ride height you want. Then position the rearend at the height it will be with tires, if you know what size tires you are using. Your frame has a nice size rear kickup. Move the rearend back until the "ears" on the house line up diagonally with the rear flats of the kickup frame. Measure that and possibly buy or build mounts for that length. This will increase the wheelbase some unless you cut some off the front of the frame. If you are using a pickup, turtle deck or going lakester with nothing behind the body, you can place the rearend anywhere behind the frame you like. With my Bantam body, because it has wheel wells, I had to mount rear housing in a certain location. That's not a problem with a t bucket.
 

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