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Anyone wire from scratch without a pre-made harness

Jim B

Active Member
Seems I don't need all the stuff in a pre-made wiring harness. The bucket is pretty simple without wipers, radio, etc etc. Has anybody started from scratch and used something like this? Seems cleaner and neater.
 

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Many people here have done just that, myself included. I think it is easier to trace down problems when done like you suggest as long as you label your wires carefully or use enough different colors that they are easy to trace. I always run the wires from the accessory back to the fuse block, your mileage may vary.
 
Look for Jim's wiring diagram on this Forum.

"HINT"

Electics---- New Dell City
 
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I did mine from scratch. There are kits, too, that are very basic. Not too expensive. It’s not that difficult as long as it is kept simple.
 
Used a Painless 8 circuit kit. Not too tough for most. But I'm all thumbs when it comes to wiring . . . :mad:
 
I went with Painless 21 circuit. Not sure at the time what I was going to do. I'm glad I went that route instead of making my own. saved me a lot of time.
 
I have wired from scratch on many past projects but I chose to use a basic kit that coincides with my gm steering column and modify to taste. For the $100.00 or whatever it cost, it was a no brainer for me.
 
$100 is a good price. By the time you buy wire, connectors, fuse block, etc. you probably have spent that much already. The kit is the better deal unless you have access to all that stuff.
 
According to my mechanic, my coolant is showing signs of electrolysis. He said that I need a ground strap from my engine to the frame. Is this good info? What do you use for attachment points?
 
Good grounding is always a good idea. Any bolt on the block will do for a terminal point, just make sure the strap is touching bare metal. The terminal your black battery cable runs to is a common, easy location to add an extra wire going to the frame.
 
Frame to a starter bolt works well, but if your engine isn't already grounded, how does the starter even work?
 
Some vehicles were equipped with ground straps to the radiator. It is true that electrolysis can occur if not properly grounded. When I worked at the radiator shop in high school I seen many radiators that were rotted out due to this issue. I’ve seen the impellers on water pumps completely gone from it too. Most radiators are rubber mounted, t buckets excepted, so the path to ground is the coolant if no other path is provided.
 
Some vehicles were equipped with ground straps to the radiator. It is true that electrolysis can occur if not properly grounded. When I worked at the radiator shop in high school I seen many radiators that were rotted out due to this issue. I’ve seen the impellers on water pumps completely gone from it too. Most radiators are rubber mounted, t buckets excepted, so the path to ground is the coolant if no other path is provided.
I was thinking about this while staring out the windshield after work last night.
Really anything that doesn't have direct metal to metal contact with the frame should probably have a ground. Its an easy investment that solves problems you don't even know you might have.
 
Putting an sacrificial ANODE in the cooling system is also a good idea, especially
if you have aluminum heads. It's much cheaper to replace the anode then to replace
your expensive heads !

I have two, one in the radiator and one in the intake manifold. Cheap insurance for $13.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/flx-32060

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