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1 wire alternator

The one wire units are easy to hook up because there is only one wire to hook up. On my bucket, the one wire goes to the main terminal block. The unit I have is is rated at 100 amps. Probably overkill. If you have a basic bucket with minimal accessories you don't need that much. Mine is 100 amps because it was cheap and readily available. I've seen others at 65 amps. I would think that would be good enough. Maybe others could chime in with their opinion.
Bill
 
Using 100 amps here; though it is probably "overkill" it's peace of mind with things like electric cooling fans, etc.

Alt bracket.jpg
 
What are you running besides the obvious like lights? Do you have an electric fan, electric
fuel pump ..... ? Just remember that an alternator is rated at it maximum, not what it puts out
at idle when you need the electric fan the most. The graphs below are plotted at the alternator
RPM, not engine speed.

Delco_10SI_PerformanceCurve.png

Delco_CS144_PerformanceCurve.png

Look at the table below and add up all the loads you have, this should give you something to shoot for.

TypicalElectricalLoads.jpg
 
If you had all that stuff you'd be driving a Cadillac not a t bucket! Just kidding. That's a good list. You can see how all that small stuff can add up to a lot of amperage.
 
If you had all that stuff you'd be driving a Cadillac not a t bucket! Just kidding.
Yea I realize that, the list is really for a modern car of today, but I didn't want to try and edit the
list. I'll let the readers do that! ;) Also the numbers are just a general idea, even better is knowing
the specs for YOUR components.
 
After many charging problems, I moved to a 100 amp Tuff Stuff One Wire Alternator. Not one problem since I made that move!
 
I was running an older built-in reg alternator with the jump wire trick to make it work as a 1 wire.
Never had an issue, but it only put out 12.6-7v with everything on.
Due to an idler pulley issue I changed alternator location to the right side to delete the idler and less room meant I had to go with a smaller unit.
I chose a CS130 version that required wiring into the system with 1 additional wire and a resistor.
I now have over 14v with everything on and my low beams are brighter than the high beams were with the 1 wire!
I didn't change it because I thought I had any problem...but since changing it I would NEVER go back to what I had before!
Perhaps actual 1 wire units are more powerful than the setup I had...I have no idea.
 
Someone asked me what size wire to run for a 100 amp alternator. I was not sure, but I did some research and found this guide.
upload_2018-7-27_9-41-28.png
 
I like the fuses better, easier to replace on the side of the road. Easy to carry spares. Some even use
breakers that can be reset. Of course you need to understand why you had a problem in the first place.
Maybe it was just undersized.
 
Ronfrancis.com is VERY negative on fuseable links! Check it out: Here's the article; "Many racers and enthusiasts are still in the habit of installing a fusible link, as those are what had previously been provided by the OEM’s for years. Old habits die hard in the performance industry, and fusible links are no longer an accepted way to wire a performance vehicle. “Have you ever seen one of these things light off? There’s a reason why they are not used any more. Consider a Maxi Fuse,” he says." This is the link; Top Ten Wiring Tips With Ron Francis Wiring - Dragzine
 
I'm not saying that fusible links are good , bad , or indifferent however ,w/ all the millions of cars that have been on the road for years w/ said links , I don't remember hearing about wide spread failure ..IMO.
 
Where do you need a fusible link? A one wire has one 4 ga cable from the alternator to the battery and you should run it direct.
 
I run an 8 GA. Wire w/ a12 GA. Link from the alt to the starter , 10 GA.w ire w/a 40 amp fuse from the alt . to the fan relay , seems to work ok for nearly 50 k miles....☺
 
I put a 1 wire 100 amp "tuff stuff" alternator on the volt meter smiled and it was good. You don't need a 100, but the cost difference for a standard lower amp one is minimal.....so I went for it.
 

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